Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog Joystick and Throttle: Buying the Full System in 2026
As an Amazon Associate, this website earns from qualifying purchases.
The short answer
Buy the classic Warthog stick and throttle pair if you fly PC-only and want the original all-metal A-10C replica hardware. If you are buying new today, compare it against the redesigned Warthog MKII before you decide.
The Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle were first sold, and are still discussed, as a matched pair. Even so, the two halves are separate pieces of hardware. Each plugs into a PC on its own. What you are really buying, the classic pair or the newer redesigned system, decides which purchase is right for your setup.
The Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle: the stick half
Hall-effect sensors with 16-bit resolution per axis
19 buttons, three 8-way hats and a metal dual trigger
PC only, programmable in T.A.R.G.E.T
Keep in mind: we could not verify a bundled listing for this stick and throttle together, so the two halves are treated as separate purchases.
Product details checked September 2026
Thrustmaster's original HOTAS Warthog flight stick is an all-metal copy of the A-10C stick. It weighs over 6 pounds. Its Hall-effect sensors read each axis at 16-bit resolution. It has 19 buttons, three 8-way hats and a metal dual trigger.
You program it with Thrustmaster's T.A.R.G.E.T. software. It connects to a PC on its own, with no throttle needed.
The Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle: the throttle half
Adjustable friction plus idle and afterburner detents
17 buttons, a mouse hat and an 8-way hat, with a built-in control panel
Weighted base over 6.5 lb, PC only
Keep in mind: it is a separate purchase from the stick, so buy both halves if you want the complete classic pair.
Product details checked September 2026
The Warthog Dual Throttle reads its two levers with 3D magnetic sensors. It has adjustable friction, plus idle and afterburner detents. It carries 17 buttons, a mouse hat and an 8-way hat, along with a built-in control panel. Its weighted base puts it at over 6.5 pounds on its own. Like the stick, it connects to a PC by itself and works on PC only.
Why the original bundled listing could not be verified
An earlier version of this page linked one combined "stick and throttle set" listing. We could not verify that bundled listing on Amazon. So this page treats the two halves as what they are: the HOTAS Warthog stick and the HOTAS Warthog Dual Throttle.
Each is sold and used as its own device. If you want both, you buy each half. That is how Thrustmaster designed the hardware to work, however a given listing bundles it.
The newer Warthog MKII, for comparison
Thrustmaster's current Warthog MKII is a different product worth knowing if you are shopping today. It ships as a redesigned base with the A-10C throttle and a Viper stick grip in the box. It uses the same H.E.A.R.T. Hall-effect sensor tech. A newer 6-pin connector supports up to 128 buttons and 8 axes across the system.
If you want the newest hardware rather than the classic pair, compare the MKII with buying the two classic halves. Our Warthog HOTAS page covers the MKII in full.
Why the throttle half is the real differentiator
The classic Warthog throttle has two levers that move on their own, with detents. It is built for aircraft that need a throttle for each engine. Think twin-engine warbirds or multi-engine airliners, not single-engine fighters.
That makes it a very different piece of hardware from the single-lever throttles that come with Thrustmaster's cheaper sets, like the T.Flight HOTAS X or the T.Flight HOTAS 4. If twin-engine flying isn't part of your routine, weigh this before paying for two Warthog halves instead of a lighter single-lever setup.
Why the stick half is the real differentiator
The stick pairs an all-metal build with Thrustmaster's H.E.A.R.T. Hall-effect sensors at 16-bit resolution. That is much finer than the sensors in most cheaper sticks. Nineteen buttons and three hat switches on the grip alone are built for combat modules with dense switch layouts. Casual small-plane flying would rarely use more than a fraction of them.
Buying both halves versus buying one
If you are starting from zero, buying both classic halves together is usually simpler. You get matched build quality and one software profile system, with no guessing about whether a mixed pair will feel right. Buying just the throttle makes sense if you already own a joystick you like. You add the Warthog's two-lever throttle for twin-engine work without replacing your stick.
Buying just the stick makes less sense. It fits only if you want the metal build and Hall-effect sensors while keeping a throttle you already have. Our Warthog joystick review covers that case.
The platform check that matters most
Thrustmaster's spec sheet lists the classic Warthog stick and throttle as PC only. The newer MKII is PC only too. No version carries an Xbox or PlayStation license. If you need a console setup, none of these fit, however well the rest of the spec matches. Look at hardware built for Xbox instead, such as Thrustmaster's own T.Flight HOTAS One.
How the two USB connections work in practice
The stick and throttle each have their own USB cable. So T.A.R.G.E.T. and most flight sims see them as two separate devices, not one controller. In practice, Microsoft Flight Simulator, X-Plane and DCS World each find the stick and throttle on their own. They let you map buttons and axes from either unit into the same profile.
It also means a loose or damaged cable on one half doesn't take down the other. You can keep flying with just the stick while the throttle gets fixed, since neither unit depends on the other.
Setting realistic expectations for combat-sim depth
The stick has 19 buttons and three hats. The throttle adds 17 buttons and a mouse hat. That makes the classic pair a fit for dense combat modules, DCS World aircraft in particular. One fighter jet there can use dozens of functions once you count weapons, radar, countermeasures and navigation.
If you mostly fly small planes or light airliners, you'll likely never use more than a fraction of those buttons. The T.Flight HOTAS 4 or HOTAS X cover that kind of flying with far less to learn.
How the grip mount changes the calculus
Thrustmaster keeps one grip mount across its Warthog-era hardware. So the stick's grip isn't fixed forever. Many simmers who buy the classic metal stick plan from day one to swap the grip later. They move to a copy of the grip from their favorite jet once they settle on one.
That is part of why the metal base pays off before you choose a final grip. The base is the long-term investment. The grip can change as your aircraft focus changes, without a new base each time.
What buying only one half means for your total setup
If you buy only the stick, you still need a throttle and a way to steer the rudder. One common pairing is a lighter single-lever throttle from Thrustmaster's cheaper lines. Another is a throttle from a different brand. For rudder, you can use a rocker on the throttle until you add pedals.
If you buy only the throttle, the reverse applies. You need a stick from somewhere else. That is common among simmers who already own a joystick they like and just want the Warthog's two-lever throttle. This piece-by-piece approach is exactly why Thrustmaster sells the two halves on their own.
Weight and desk footprint to plan around
Both halves are much heavier than Thrustmaster's plastic sticks, and that is on purpose. The weight keeps them planted during firm combat inputs instead of sliding across the desk. Before you buy both, measure your desk width, since the stick and throttle sit side by side. Leave enough depth that the throttle's travel doesn't run off the edge of the desk while you fly.
Who this is for
This pair suits PC-only simmers who want metal hardware. It fits best if twin-engine planes or dense combat layouts are part of your regular flying. If you already own a joystick or throttle you like, weigh the points above before you assume you need both halves. The two really are separate, and Thrustmaster's design treats them that way.
Verdict: buying the Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle
Buy the classic Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog joystick and throttle together if you fly on PC only and want matched, all-metal hardware. The pair is built for twin-engine planes and dense combat button layouts. If you already own a joystick you like, the throttle half works fine on its own. If you are shopping fresh today, compare the classic pair with the newer, redesigned Warthog MKII before you buy.
FAQ
Are the stick and throttle sold and used as separate pieces of hardware?
Yes. The original Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog stick and the HOTAS Warthog dual throttle each connect to your PC independently. Each is programmable and usable on its own, so you do not have to buy or run both together.
What's the difference between the classic Warthog pair and the newer Warthog MKII?
The MKII is Thrustmaster's redesigned base that ships with the A-10C throttle and a Viper stick grip, plus a modernized 6-pin connector and metal structure. The original stick-and-throttle set described here is the two classic halves: the metal A-10C stick and the separate dual-throttle unit.
Does the Warthog stick and throttle work on Xbox or PlayStation?
No. Thrustmaster's Warthog line, classic and MKII alike, is PC only. If you need console compatibility, this is not the right hardware; look at hardware built for Xbox instead.
Is the dual-throttle design worth it if I mostly fly single-engine aircraft?
Not particularly. The two independent levers exist for aircraft where each engine needs its own throttle input. If you fly mostly single-engine GA or fighters, a single-lever throttle from a lower-priced HOTAS does the same job with less to set up.
